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Peak Mountain 3

Sunspear Crack

FA Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 2005.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Climb the obvious crack up the base of the Sunspear Pinnacle 30 ft to a large ledge belay with chains (5.6, gear to 3 inches and less). P2: move belay to far left side of the large ledge and a belay anchors left of the obvious crack system. Follow the crack about 30 feet to a bolted low angle slab and headwall placing gear to 3 inches and less (5.7). At the headwall move slightly riight and continue up the obvious crack system to the next low angle slab and headwall placing gear to 2.5 inches and less first move into the the crack can be a little tricky (5.7+). Continue to follow the crack up the next headwall to the summit (5.7+). Rappel from two bolts (no chains) back down to the start of the climb.

Location

Downhill side of Sunspear Pinnacle. The Westeros trail takes you within 5 feet of the start of the climb.

Protection

cams to 3 inches


Routes in Sunspear Pinnacle


  1. 1
    Sunspear Crack
    5.7+
    Trad