- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a new, direct start to Holladay-Ludwig (5.6) following the arete most of the way, climbing left of the bolts. The last 20' links into the Holladay-Ludwig, put up by Matthias Holladay and Richard Ludwig. I did not rebolt Holladay-Ludwig in its entirety because of sections of loose rock.
The crux was going direct at the fourth bolt with friction slab feet. I recently pulled off the big block with a crowbar and unfortunately it made going far right possible only about 5.6. Test yourself going direct, but you can always bail out right towards Holliday-Ludwig.
A new 5th bolt protects the follower from a nasty swing. It’s super super comfy to skip it on lead, but it is there to protect your follower. Clip it with a sling or long draw.
Oh yeah, and you'll have to follow the climb to clean it! Back clean the last bolt for your follower.
Location
The arete left of Blowhole.
Protection
8 bolts. Rams horns anchor.