Tits Out For The Lads

Originally only two bolted lines fired up the huge West face of Overhang Rock, and Tits was the the left of the two. Now there are a number of selections here.

From the middle of the crag, scramble up the right side of a large block to a generous belay ledge. Tits fires straight to the roof above with its anchor just over the first overlap. Brilliant yellow edges and flakes characterize this classic face climb. The climbing consists mostly of big reaches to crisp edges with a technical crux coming as you pass a small overlap. The anchors, unfortunately, were placed below the big roofs.

We toproped the roofs in 1990, and one could certainly push this route out to 125 feet by working through the roof system to the right of the anchor. Three stars for continuity, burly moves, and great position. The rock here is largely solid, but some of the flakes are friable and must be used without pulling really hard on them.

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.