Barber's Roof

What I originally thought was Barber’s Roof was not. It engaged the same massive roof but on the wrong side. After a walk-through of Donation with ‘60s/’70s climber Ken Decker, I learned the actual line Barber did on that fateful day was right up the front - a way harder line! I thought the other way was tough! This line runs out from the main wall with absolutely no feet and little hands. In fact at one point I was palming my way on a sloping gritty part while basically staying on by a heel hook. It’s bad ass for sure! And the best part, Barber’s did the first ascent free solo!!! That’s right, free solo - Decker witnessed it.The story goes according to Decker “Barber tried this route two or three times on top rope and fell each time. Frustrated he said ‘Get me off this rope, it’s bothering me’. At that, Barber untied and went up it clean, free soloed”. When Decker told me this there were three other climbers listening. We all had wide eyes and open mouths. One of the others said something like No Shit?! Decker replied “I was standing right here when he did it”.I’ve read about Henry Barber’s exploits all over the world. He was a gifted climber and did many FAs free solo long before Alex Honnold was even a glimmer in his mother’s eye. To think that he came to Donation Rocks and not only did the first ascent of one of the hardest routes here, but did it free solo, Wow! It’s this kind of information that makes the months of work I’ve put in on the climbing history at Donation worth it.Now to the route: Follow the yellow line on the route photo. The roof sticks out so far that unless you’re seven feet tall you can’t possibly take it directly under the fracture. So, go up left till the start of the roof. Work your way out with minimal hands and only right heels for feet. Power out till you’re at the vertical fracture. Above that are awesome chicken heads. The problem is getting to them and that’s where you’re on your own. Hey, I can’t give it all away! Once through the roof crux, continue up to the very top and give a rebel yell and imagine doing it without a rope! Then say a word for Henry. He’s still climbing and living the life in New Hampshire. A true living legend.

Main Wall: Jam Crack Wall. Access by either lower or upper parking lots.

Top rope anchors. Expect a swing and rope rub if/when you come off the crux.