Dancing Bear

Great route.

I entered this at the FA given rating of 10b.

It is really sustained and insecure, feels more like 10c/d. Starts with tough finger crack, splitter hand jams up top gets wider as you go. Stemming options on Heartbreak to the left which is so close it seems fine to me, it splits off after the hard start.

Right of Heartbreak of Psoriasis.

double rack to 3", #4 good up top.There is no anchor, you could make a anchor with hand size gear or cordellete on column, or traverse left to Winds of Change anchor, 60 meter rope works for rappel.