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Peak Mountain 3

Based on A True Story

FA Kurt Hager
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The epitome of Jeff's World climbing: powerful, technical, wild moves and improbable features. Climbing on gems like this is why you traveled all the way back here. Only con is that it will seep for a while after a heavy rain, so if you find it dry, jump on it!

After some excellent 5.12 climbing to get things warmed-up, the crux involves wrestling into the flare, engaging some trickery, then dynoing out of the flare to a sloper and figuring out how to match the rail. Keep it together for the next sequence to pull on the slab, and enjoy a victory lap on slightly runout, occasionally crunchy lichen slab to the top out.

This route was originally bolted by Josh Helke over ten years ago and named the Organical project. Josh has long since left the northlands and established the highly successful Organic Climbing company. Like any entrepreneur who takes some risks, Helke took risks on this rig by bolting a lose block and which came down with the bolt still attached in a terrifying, thunderous crash. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but rumor is a black bear was severely startled and moderately traumatized when the block came down while it was sun bathing and rummaging through a bag of trail mix left by climbers. You can still see the fallen flake with the bolt attached on top of the boulder below the climb.

The first ascent was done in a bug shirt, which was thrown down in the double knee bars just before firing the crux. After flying back to MN from Boston for a Memorial Day trip, Bob Omann and I were not about to bail even with plague level sand flies. When I hollered in celebration at the anchors, I was in turn startled to see the Canadian customs officer on top who was hiking on a day off. After enjoying some whiskey he had on hand, we all hiked out together. Bob had been dead baiting for lake trout at the trailhead while we climbed and when we arrived, the rod was gone. Bob spotted it 10 feet off shore, swam out, and just as the rod dove down he snagged it, nearly getting pulled into the depths. After some screams, grunting and slipping in the mud and 20 minutes of fighting latter he landed a massive trout and there was much rejoicing. Quite the day...at least that’s how I remember it.

Location

Locate the impressive flare feature in the roofs left of Gargoyle / Cathedral 

Protection

Perma draws, three bolts for the upper slab.