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Peak Mountain 3

Samurai Piton

FA Bob Gray John Gilchrist
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

First Pitch goes at 5.11b, follow a thin crack with one piton to a nice ledge. Then move from the ledge to an open book very thin crack with a piton in it (5.12b?). This pitch finishes on a another great belay ledge. Watch for rope drag when pulling the rope from this pitch. Finishes with a 5.11c off-width pitch. Rappel the route. I wore through one of my harness gear loops on this one, squirming in the off-width pitch.

Location

This route starts just below a giant black streak in Reds Canyon Main wall. It starts on the right hand side of the streak, look for a piton with a red carabiner in it about 30 feet up in a crack system. A burly approach a day keeps the climbing hoards away!

Protection

Standard Desert rack up to #4