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Peak Mountain 3

Blood on the Blade

FA 1979 Paul Horak, Mark Leonard, David Baltz
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route follows the south arête to Lunch Ledge. P1: Cross a 4th-class slab to the left edge of a triangular face (you can start the 1st pitch here). Make steep moves left past a fixed pin to gain the wall above and wander up and left heading for the obvious right-facing corner. At a bolt, move left around the corner and face climb up for 30 feet then move back right around the corner onto the face and a fixed pin (5.8R). Continue up and right to a bolt below a small roof. Turn the roof (5.10) and belay 10 feet above at the first good crack. P2: Continue up the gulley 80'to the base of a triangular face. P3: Traverse left to the crack of Happy Gnome and continue up the crack to a small ledge with a fixed pin on the very edge of the arête. P4: Move up and right on steep rock with good holds to a bolt. Pull the 5.8 mantle above and continue up the arête to Lunch Ledge. P5: Finish up the standard Happy Gnome to the summit.

Location

Up the descent gully to the base of a 4th class slab.

Protection

RP's to 3" cam.


Routes in Yataghan