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Peak Mountain 3

Horizontal Departure

FA Randy Marsh, Wendell Broussard, Pete Absolon, 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The roof crack you've spied from the wash looks a lot harder than it actually is. However, it's a fun climb and offers good jamming, good protection and a good view of Gateway Canyon.

Start up the chockstone filled chimney until you reach the finger crack. Place some pro and pull a few chimney moves until you're right under the intimidating roof. From here the feet disappear but the jams and finger locks are solid. Move out towards the lip of the roof and pull out from under it.

A belay can be built on medium cams and one 4" piece. To descend scramble up easy terrain and continue to the west where you will find a gully that can easily be scrambled back and around to the base of the route.

Location

The central route at Gateway Crag. Easily identifiable from the wash.

Protection

Double cams from .5-3" for the crack. A 4" piece for the belay.


Routes in Gateway Crag


  1. 2
    Horizontal Departure
    5.10b
    Trad