- Edit (TBD)
Description
Two good pitches of small knobs and smearing, with some fun moves turning the two small roofs on pitch one.
Pitch 1: Start on the top of the small ledges next to the corner. A sporty move or two gets one to the first bolt. Angle slightly left then straight up past bolts on small hold edging/smearing as the wall slowly steepens. A tricky sequence brings one to the roof. Step around right and go through the double tier flakes/roofs, then up the knobby face to the belay atop the flake. 12a.
Pitch 2: Up the knobby face just left of the belay to a fairly high first bolt. Proceed more or less straight up to the crux at the 5th bolt. Tend left a little then straight up. From the 6th bolt it is possible to move up and a little right to clip the last bolt on Message In a Bottle, otherwise, stay a little left and run for the belay. 6 or 7 bolts, depending on the option taken at the end. Good pitch of knob and micro-knob climbing. 12a.
Location
Right of Flotsam, just left of the right side corner.
Protection
Bolts.