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Peak Mountain 3

The Crying Python

FA BK and MP
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Description

We started up a chossy chimney to the west 150’ and then continued upward and eastward in the chimney until we got to the tower about 60’ up.  This was probably 5.8 and about 200’. There is a little ledge here deep in a cleft that is at the base of a short OW that is the saddle between the tower and the main wall behind. There is a direct line that might be the better option to this point. Matt thought it would go at 5.9. From here continue up the flared OW into the chimney and continue placing some random cams along the way (.5, .4, .75). Stem up until you can reach the first of two bolts. 5.5 takes you from the bolts to the top. The anchor is on the NW side of the tower.  Divide the route into pitches as you see fit. (I soloed the first bit then threw a rope down to Matt who was on the ground and hauled up the gear. We did the route in 1 contrived pitch with considerable rope drag.)

Location

This tower is on the far north side of the northern most cluster of rocks that make up the Dinosaur Junction Cliffs.  The Crying Python is just west of The Hissing Cobra. Getting through the lower cliff band is most easily done from the west. We followed an old road then up to the base of the cliff then traversed south until we could scramble through.

Protection

Single set of cams. Slings, draws, aiders.