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Peak Mountain 3

The Partizan

FA Alex McIntyre, January 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This line lies just left of 96 Degrees in the Shade on the same pillar feature. Start up the juggy arete with your feet on the slab to reach the first bolt at 15 feet. After clipping, cast off onto the face. Surf right to a decent knob and prepare for the crux between bolts two and three. Grab the Terre de Siene crimp and move through the thin thin with deadpoints and lockoffs, staying on the line of crimps and avoiding moving right until a jug just above the third bolt is reached. Rest up and then bust back left through slightly easier, though highly intricate, moves past two more bolts to the break. From here, blast up through hero jugs to 96 Degrees' original two bolt anchor.

This route is contrived, as the much larger holds on 96 Degrees remain technically within reach through most of the climb. However, the line flows naturally up a completely independent line of holds. Only one is shared between the two: the jug right of the third bolt (left of the fifth bolt on 96 Degrees, I think). You will be on route if you remain left of the faint seam splitting the face for the duration.

Location

Left of 96 Degrees in the Shade on Blazing Fin. Identified by a high first bolt reachable from the juggy arete.

Protection

Five bolts to a two chain anchor.