- Edit (TBD)
Description
The start is the crux of the whole route depending on how you approach it. It looks like you could make this a 5.11 by staying directly under the bolts and pulling some hard pinches, a small pocket, and laybacks. We went left starting more on the left bolted route but clipping this route.
The crux is getting over the lip from the 2nd bolt to the third. Just above the 2nd bolt are a few crimpy, slightly sloper holds, but it still positive enough to move on. Start in a huge pocket to the left of the 2nd bolt, lean out far to the right (this might be harder for shorter reaches), and lean into a small ledge above the 2nd bolt. Cross over to another good ledge, and adjust your feet to then pop up and over the ledge to a huge chunk of rock.
Once up and above the 2nd bolt, stay right for a rather easy climb or stay more out on the arete for a more challenging climb.
Location
This is the right most bolted route in the back of the crag. It definitely has various ways to tackle the route which can greatly change its difficulty.
It would be possible to hike up and around the back of the crag to set it up as a toprope climb.
Protection
There are anchors at the top.
Routes in Unknown Crag
- 4Unknown Sport 25.10Sport