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Peak Mountain 3

Sleeper

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Description

Five pitches, with the last two being runout slab climbing. It is also possible to climb the first two and then exit via the last pitch of On The Lamb. A fantastic climb if you enjoy squeeze chimneys and slightly runout slab.

P1 - Right facing squeeze chimney with the crux probably being exiting the squeeze. This leads to some easy terrain and then either cut left (5.6) or stay in the corner (great 5.8 stemming). Belay at the top of the pillar takes 1"-3".

P2 Continue up the curve of the arch and then head straight up on runout 5.6 knobs. Some pro can be found in the left-facing crack on the left then head more or less straight up (5.8). This pitch can be a bit spicy - you wouldn't want to fall from the 5.8 bit (or on the runout 5.6). Pitch ends where the climb intersects On The Lamb

P3 - 5.8 slab past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor

P4/5 - Significant runout (only a single bolt) to the top. The crux.

Location

Starts from the ledge in the middle of the west face of Lamb Dome. Approach via the long third class ramp and look for the obvious right facing arch/corner (the first pitch).

Protection

Standard rack to 3"