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Peak Mountain 3

Brain Cramps

FA Mack Johnson, 1980
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

On Turkey Rocks, this route is about 75 feet to the right of

Vanishing Point

and can be started in a couple ways. The guidebook topo wasn't too clear, but you start up one of two cracks that both lead to a slightly overhanging section with an old piton. The left crack goes right around a small tree (about a foot tall), and up without disturbing the tree! The right crack goes up a right-facing dihedral and moves left. Crank through the section after the piton. The rest of the route is a wider section which is more chimney than OW, but still a little grunting was going on.... Fun, fairly short pitch.

Edit: description above could be eastern front per comments, but it's been 15+ years, and I definitely have a "brain cramp". I think L to R is Brain Cramp, Eastern Front, and Fiend. If somebody has a better description, feel free.

Edit from Mack Johnson: I believe I did the FA of this route in 1980, though someone may correct me. It was my first route with brass nuts, especially handy before micro-cams. We did not place any fixed pins.

Protection

Standard rack, a couple wider pieces perhaps. I took up to a 4.5 cam....


1000 km
1000 mi