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MapDescription
This climb also goes free at 5.12a A1.
P1 - C1+ or 12a A0- Start on the western point of the monkey at a 5 bolt bolt ladder. Then aid the crack at C1, cam hooks and offset nuts are usefull here, clip a few more bolts, then mantel onto ledge. 3 bolt Anchor at small ledge.
P2 - A1 - Aid the bolts to sling belay.
P3 - easy 5th C1 or 5.12a - Aid more bolts to a scramble into the big west face cave.
P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11B - Aid out of the cave on bolts to some free to the summit.
Descent: Rap down to the nose boulder then one double rope to ground.
Note: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked with 60M ropes. This climb also goes free at 5.12a, except for P2.
Protection
Small clean aid rack to 2" include cam hooks and offset nuts. Mabey a Talon or a cheat stick. Quickdraws.
Routes in (s) Monkey Face
- 12West Face (Aid)Easy 5thTrad · Aid