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Peak Mountain 3

The Salient Rock Shape of the Locomotive

FA Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, April 10, 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The start has a bouldery crux in which you move from an undercling to a sloper to a layback. This move is protected by a bolt. After the second bolt, move up to the thin crack on the "feathery" section. Follow the crack, clipping three more bolts, and then use stoppers and cams to 1.5". This section is steep and pumpy. It involves jams, laybacks, and face holds. The crack goes to the left of the roof, above which is a three-bolt, chained anchor.

Location

From the start of "Aficionado" walk a short distance left along the base of the wall. Where the path starts going uphill, look for the first bolt below the crack splitting the feathered wall.

Protection

5 quickdraws plus a selection of stoppers and cams from small wires to 1.5".


Routes in Black and Feathered Walls