South Lake Peaks Traverse

OVERVIEW

This is a very enjoyable link-up with each route leading to the next - no hiking from one peak to another really. Mostly 3rd and 4th class with maybe a few 5th class moves in a couple of places. Best done in summer when there is no snow on the route except in the final chute.

APPROACH

From the trailhead at South Lake go about 0.8 miles and take the left fork toward Bishop Pass and take this until you reach Long Lake, skirt around to the right side and toward Hurd Peak. Aim for the dark, right slanting dike. The start of the climb is a ramp about 100 yards to the right.

CLIMB

NORTHEAST ARETE, HURD PEAK

Take the NE Arete route to the summit (SP has a more detailed description).

NORTHEAST RIDGE, PEAK 12,192'

From the summit of Hurd Peak head south toward Peak 12,192', down 3rd class rock for a short distance until encountering the obvious start to the technical section of the ridge. You will see what looks to be about 5.6 climbing to get onto the ridge proper (I didn't go this way so can't say for sure) and to the left (east) will be a gully. Take the gully down about 50' feet until you can cut back right, in the direction of the ridge. Go maybe 20' and then head back up to the crest of the ridge as soon as possible.

Once back on top you are basically following the crest all the way with maybe a few small deviation. Soon after the ridge starts to head down (for the second half) it will turn to class 2-3 down to the low point before heading back up (3rd) until a couple hundred feet before the summit (4th).

Descend the south ridge (Class 2) to the saddle between Peak 12,192' and the start of Trapezoid Peak's North Ridge route.

NORTH RIDGE, TRAPEZOID PEAK

This description is taken fro the page for this route: "Gain the first summit by scrambling up its NE ridge, the odd Class 4 moves here and there. Follow the main horizontal ridge, keep right at the occasional impasse - the views across to Trapezoid's monolithic Northeast Wall are awe-inspiring. The ridge ends at a some towers and a notch. Descend down into the gap and then up a Class 3 face to the summit plateau."

MT JOHNSON (TRAVERSE FROM TRAPEZOID PEAK)

From the summit of Trapezoid Peak hike down toward the ridge (see drawn in photo) on easy 2nd class terrain until it becomes a ridge. For maximum fun stay on the crest of the ridge as much as possible all the way the the summit of Mt Johnson. There will be the small deviation here and there but for the most part it is pretty easy going.

NORTHWEST RIDGE, MT JOHNSON

From the summit of Mt Johnson head northwest to the ridge leading to Treasure Col, soon you will see an A-Frame shaped walkway, walk this and continue down the ridge. Soon soon you'll come to a large boulder, go skier's right and continue to the col and down the chute to the snow field and talus below (the chute may be snow or a loose, dirty gully depending on time of year).

Solo. If using gear take a light alpine rack and 30 meter rope. A small ice axe may be useful.