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Peak Mountain 3

Lebanese JoJo

FA Sal Mamusia, Bob Conz, "Frodo" Lybarger, Mike Ward, Paul Van Betten 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a strange route featuring a fun, airy traverse with excellent rock.

Pitch 1: Rope up and climb the obvious weakness on the left side of the roof - a overhanging, juggy right-facing corner. There are two bolts here. Belay at the large pine tree.

Pitch 2: Traverse directly right, using a horizontal crack for your feet and disappear from the sight of your belayer. Continue traversing past a bolt to a small belay station (1 bolt, one fixed nut). Head up the seam here and follow it through a roof and past a fist crack to the anchor (fixed nuts, slings) at the top of the climb. Rappel once from here with two ropes.

Variation: From the small belay station (1 bolt, one nut) you can continue traversing and head up from another point of your choosing. There are at least three vertical cracks you can take to the top, each of similar difficulty.

Location

The base of the climb is about 75 feet left of Smears for Fears. The prominent feature is the large black varnished face on the upper portion of the climb and the roof below it that towers over a pink rotten section. It is located just around the right side of Frigid Air Buttress.

Protection

Standard rack through #2 Camalot, emphasis on small gear.