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Peak Mountain 3

Home Boys on Soy

FA Randall Green and Jim Semmelroth 2001
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Moderate through the first three pitches. Off the ground feels tricky as you get used to the chert. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with minimal drag (makes for faster ascent). The next couple pitches require gear for protection (sport climbers beware).

Pitch 1:  (5.9) Start left of the birdhead feature on the steep face. Work you way up the "bulletproof" face to belay ledge. (65 feet, 6 bolts)

Pitch 2: (5.9+) From ledge pull over bulge onto steep slab and pull through several more gritty sections to a broken corner. Move up corner to v-shaped ledge. (95ft, 13 bolts). (If combining, mind the bolt number!)

Pitch 3: (5.9) Layback up a very cool and steep corner for a few bolts and then step left on another off vertical, chert fortified face. (85ft, bolts)

Pitch 4: (5.11a) Slap left and work left to a gut churning bulge mostly on jugs. Haul through a thin roof move to easier short section (5.9) that takes gear. (95ft, medium gear, 9 bolts)

Pitch 5: (5.8+) Jam straight up a steep hand to finger-sized crack past one bolt and end on top of a small tower. (65ft, 1 bolt, medium gear)

Pitch 6: (5.10) Move up and slightly left past bolts through a small bulge. Make it as hard as you want here then move left after bulge to a ledge at the top of a large chimney. (75ft, 8 bolts and medium gear).

Location

This route starts at the back of the bird head on the face.

Protection

Bolts for first three pitches, a smattering of medium gear the next three pitches.


Routes in Birdhead Buttress