- Edit (TBD)
Description
Moderate through the first three pitches. Off the ground feels tricky as you get used to the chert. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with minimal drag (makes for faster ascent). The next couple pitches require gear for protection (sport climbers beware).
Pitch 1: (5.9) Start left of the birdhead feature on the steep face. Work you way up the "bulletproof" face to belay ledge. (65 feet, 6 bolts)
Pitch 2: (5.9+) From ledge pull over bulge onto steep slab and pull through several more gritty sections to a broken corner. Move up corner to v-shaped ledge. (95ft, 13 bolts). (If combining, mind the bolt number!)
Pitch 3: (5.9) Layback up a very cool and steep corner for a few bolts and then step left on another off vertical, chert fortified face. (85ft, bolts)
Pitch 4: (5.11a) Slap left and work left to a gut churning bulge mostly on jugs. Haul through a thin roof move to easier short section (5.9) that takes gear. (95ft, medium gear, 9 bolts)
Pitch 5: (5.8+) Jam straight up a steep hand to finger-sized crack past one bolt and end on top of a small tower. (65ft, 1 bolt, medium gear)
Pitch 6: (5.10) Move up and slightly left past bolts through a small bulge. Make it as hard as you want here then move left after bulge to a ledge at the top of a large chimney. (75ft, 8 bolts and medium gear).
Location
This route starts at the back of the bird head on the face.
Protection
Bolts for first three pitches, a smattering of medium gear the next three pitches.
Routes in Birdhead Buttress
- 1Home Boys on Soy5.11aSport