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Peak Mountain 3

Firebird Ridge

FA July 1975: Fred Beckey, Mike Graber, Dave Black
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An aesthetic ridgeline with high-quality rock. Hidden gem of Sierra ridge climbs!

Route begins at a notch just above an upside-down boot shaped rock poking up along the ridge. Follow the ridge to the sub-summit of Norman Clyde Peak. Stay directly on the ridge for the best and most sustained climbing. Rock is generally cleaner and less chossy on the east of the ridge; most difficulties are bypassed on the west (climber's right) of the ridge. Climbing becomes easier and less sustained in the upper pitches.

Traverse east along the summit ridge to reach the summit.

Location

Approach: Follow South Fork Trail, branching off at the climbers trail to remain in the drainage toward Finger Lake. Cross the river when possible. Once in the basin southwest above Finger Lake, scramble 2nd/3rd class to gain the prominent ridge to climber's right of Norman Clyde. Continue on ridge to start of route.

Descent: North-Northeast Ridge (climber's right of route), begins at the top of the sub-summit where the climb tops out. Possible to bail right into the descent at any point on the climb. Class 3-5. Rappels depending on seasonal conditions and downclimbing ability. Many rappel stations are visible along descent. Beware: this descent is long and tedious by Sierra standards.

Protection

Alpine rack.

Webbing for descent rappels may be useful.

Ice axe for early season approach/descent.


Routes in Norman Clyde Peak