- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start up the low angle slab following the left trending thin crack. Alpine draws advised here to prevent rope drag. Find plenty of smaller nut and cam placements as you make your way up the slab to meet the vertical face with parallel off-finger cracks. Push through the parallel crack crux to some pleasant hand and fist jams. Keep working your way up the widening crack using foot work and off-width technique until you reach the chimney. Place a bomber big piece and shimmy the last short run-out to the anchors.
Location
Follow the approach directions for Elysium Proper. After following the approach trail along the back side of Elysium you will arrive at the wall's right most route (climber's right). Follow the path along the main wall down to a low overhanging roof. Here you will see the start of a left trending crack on a low angle face. The crack starts thin on the slab and gradually widens to a chimney finish as the rock becomes increasingly steep. Anchors can be found at the top of the chimney on the climbers right side.
Protection
Best protected with: -Several alpine draws -A set of nuts -Singles of Black Diamond Camalots # 0.3 through #5 -Doubles of Black Diamond Camalots # 0.5, 0.75, 3, and 5