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Peak Mountain 3

Doughboy

FA Eric Scully
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun and extremely bouldery climb. A hard, shouldery boulder problem off the ground leads to an obviously chipped hold and a few pulls over the first bulge. A second (crux) boulder problem is encountered, with a couple options. The FAist went a little left to the pod in the quartz band and pulled some super thuggy, long moves; another method goes a bit right, almost to the arete, then back toward the center. The jug-laden left arete is off. After the crux, trend up and left up a flake past one more bolt to the chains.

Mico hit the nail on the head when he said "the bottom and middle are really, really hard, and the end isn't easy." There aren't any particularly easy moves on this one until the very end.

Location

The only climb on the narrow NE face of Stovepipe, left of the Flyboys arete. This is the side facing towards New Wave Wall.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.