We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Toxic Waltz

FA Tom Gilje & Mike Lechlinksi, 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

To the right of

Pat Adams Dihedral

is this steep arete. Five bolts lead up the arete. This climb is MUCH more difficult than currently rated, in part because I broke a crimp while trying it in January of '06. At the current time, the crux is probably a V7 boulder problem followed by a difficult perch move on a large horn and more thin face climbing. The climbing is very good and the position is spectacular.

Location

This route is located a pitch off the ground; it starts on a ledge above

Leap Year Flake

, a good pitch in its own right. The formation is a good ways left of the "main" right section of the Dairy Queen Wall.

Protection

At least five quickdraws. Beware the first clipping hold/stick clip the first bolt: a broken hold/fall would deposit the climber directly onto a yucca (or nolina; not sure which) and possibly off the ledge if the belayer is not anchored.

No anchor exists at the top save old slings around a bush/sapling: exercise extreme caution with the bush/sapling and maybe bring something else to leave up there. It is possible to walk off via a complicated route over the top and down and around the back of the formation. 5th class climbing/downclimbing/traversing is mandatory.