Sumatra

This route is just one of the additional fun slab routes added this year to the largely previously ignored

Coalpit Buttress

.

Coalpit Buttress

includes everything between

Triangle Wall

and

Pentapitch

area. Approach as for

Stiffler's Mom

or

Pentapitch

. Start as for

PRECIOUS LOST

. This is the next slab to the east of

Endless Torment

. Look for bolts that start after a short corner on the left side.

Pitch #1

: Climb the first pitch of Precious Lost to a belay ledge with two Fixe ring bolts. 25m, 5.10+.

Pitch #2

: Continue up Precious Lost passing two bolts and then instead of going up and right to that tree belay, persevere through a tad of easy jungle whacking to a two bolt belay to the left of a large tree and left facing corner. 5.7, then 3rd class.

Pitch #3

: Climb up and left passing several bolts on the fun slab. Bearing left and reaching the cruxy "headwall" of the pitch, slap your way up past this to a another two bolt belay. 30m, 5.10+.

Pitch #4

: Climb past several more bolts on easier ground to a roof. Surmount the roof protected by a bolt to another bolt and traverse again to the left to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9.

One may either rappel from here or traverse 25m left to the

pitch #5

of

Stifflers Mom

or continue up and right to the very enjoyable upper pitches of

PRECIOUS LOST

.

QDs and a good assortment of nuts, TCUs, and cams to #3