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Peak Mountain 3

Deep Cycle

FA Original FA 1999 Andy Kluge, B. Burgess, Extension 7/26/2019 Bruce Burgess, Brian Espe
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A new extension has been added to this 20 year old route.  This climb has been thoroughly scrubbed.  Most bolts have been replaced, and it is ready for the North Side climbing season.

Easy climbing on good holds over a small hollow flake with okay gear gets you up to the first bolt.  Pull over a small roof up to the 3rd bolt where you traverse low to the base of a small left facing corner.  Clipping the 4th bolt is delicate. Laybacking up the corner past another bolt to a slanting crack is the crux. This is where the original route moved up and right onto the rounded face above. Instead, make a big move (2nd crux) left to a great undercling them up on amazing holds into the bigger left facing corner which takes great gear and is fairly sustained up to a horizontal and stance out right at the end of the corner.  Continue up the vertical face past amazing holds and a 00 cam to the anchor.

Location

Starts 20 ft right of Blue Steel Throbber at a birch tree.

Protection

stoppers and cams 00 through gold Camalot with doubles on 0 & 1 TCU sizes. Draws, several long runners. 2 bolt anchor with ready-clip biners.