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Peak Mountain 3

Back in the Saddle

FA 5-12-07 Jon Stewart, Jim Opdycke
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is best done in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 1: Start up Rauch Factor clipping 3 bolts and then turn the corner, a small wire might inspire confidence here. Traverse up past the first set of anchors and on to the anchors for Chain Mail.

Pitch 2: Continue up from the anchors into a dirty crack system, trend right to a crack with a piton and then past a small roof. The piton looks ok but a few feet higher the thin crack opens up and takes a small nut well. Traverse over right and eventually end at the Rauch Factor anchors.

Note that as of April 2015 the upper pitch is very dirty and needs much cleaning. If climbing this route please take that into account.

Location

Shared start with Rauch Factor and also shares top anchors with Rauch Factor.

Rappel

Protection

Gear to 1" including a couple smaller cams in the Camalot 0.2 to 0.4 range.