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Peak Mountain 3

Honor thy Father

FA Ajax Greene, and Matt Cox (Apr, '76)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This crack is pretty in your face off the ground, but you can sew it up. The crack follows a ramp with interesting water pockets. It is quite polished in some places. I found the crux to be the bottom third of the route, liebacking and then pulling into a stance. The roof at the top looks hard from the ground, but it no harder than 5.9 and takes bomber pro.

Location

Route is just left of Leisure Time.

At the top you have a few options

-Rap off some slings on a horn near the top of the pitch.

-Scramble and downclimb (5th class) to the bolt anchors on the ledge shared by The Riddler and Leisure Time.

-Head towards the top of the formation and then scramble down and left(west) through vegetation and a 3rd class gully to reach the talus field adjacent to the wall.

Protection

Doubles up to #2 Camalot and one #3 (for the roof) will get you up. Take a good selection of nuts as there are a lot spots to use them.

Also, as of 4/5/09 the belay slings were way tattered. I ended up building a natural anchor and walking off (not recommended).