- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route starts 20 feet right of the chimney (which is the start for Decameron), behind the tree.
Your first good gear is at a short splitter crack. Back up your first piece because you’re about to run it out a little ways. Gently trend up and right until you find a horizontal crack. Continue up until you reach the ledge. Off of the ledge begins finger/hand crack with rounded out edges, flares and pods. You’ll want stoppers, small cams, and a #3 BD Camalot.
At the top of the splitter crack is a devious roof which I found to be the crux of the route.
Rest and get ready to pull up over the second roof on good jugs.
Exit the last small roof on lichen covered holds and amble up blocky, 5th class terrain until you top out on the cliff rim.
Descent: I didn’t have enough rope to rap the route with a 60m. Ideally you would bring your partner up in reverse and then you could carefully Walk climbers left (skiers right) to the top of the Decameron and rap down to the ledge where Decameron tops out. From here you can pull your rope and comfortably rap down from a slung tree.
A simple alternative would be to tag another rope up with you, sling a pine tree and double rope rap.
Location
20 feet right of Decameron in a crack system behind the tree.
*You’ll notice that a little further to the right is another crack system; this route goes at 5.8.
Bubba City
Sandstonia
Protection
Cams from BD 00-3
Full set of tricams
Routes in 01. Sandstonia
- 32Beef Boy Field Trip5.9Trad