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Peak Mountain 3

Stun 'Em With Science

FA Blanchard, Panetta, Bainbridge, King 9-1982. P1 direct, Schultz, 5-2012
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Description

P1. 5.9+, 25m. A very short way up the obvious ramp is a steep right-facing corner/crack. Work up (and I mean WORK) up this sustained tricky system, continuing until you can exit left on juggy face with runnel, trending  left. (a tempting crack a bit right is a bit harder). End on very nice ledge above with chain anchor.

P2. 5.8, 35m. Ascend classic and clean left-facing corner/crack, continue to wide horizontal crack under headwall. Traverse left onto easy knobby face to summit.

There are 2 different anchors stations on top, neither convenient for belaying this last pitch. Be prepared to use some skill and forethought.

Location

The short approach ramp is on the close side to the Milky Way Wall, is easily seen from the trail if coming from below,  The Incinerator can be easily approached from topping out on the Milky Way Wall

Protection

This is an all gear route, doubles to 3" will lower stress.


Routes in Incinerator


  1. 1
    Stun 'Em With Science
    5.9+
    Trad