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Peak Mountain 3

Terete Arête

FA TR FA: Unknown, FLA: Evan W
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Arête to the left of the Lost Sailor Dihedral. First ascent unknown, likely in the 70s, and occasionally (rarely) top roped from a ledge you can reach via down climbing 4th class from the stairs.

At the Base of the route you can start up a little 3-4rd class gulley (right) up to the 5.8- section or start the arête directly from the ground (left) 10b. The climbing on the arete is plesant with positive holds but there is very little solid protection and occasional loose holds (although most have been pulled), so just pay attention.

As for the name, Terete is a botanical term meaning "cylindrical or slightly tapering, and without substantial furrows or ridges," a perfect description of this route. Enjoy!

Location

Arête to the left of the massive dihedral on the south face of Wedding Rock

Protection

The protection on the bottom half is fairly straightforward. Two small offset cams are recommended. As for the top half, time to get creative and also not fall. The top half takes small offset nuts and and a few small cams if you are creative. None of it on the upper section would hold anything though. If you fall and survive, it's probably a good idea to go buy a lottery ticket. I recommend belaying the leader from the very bottom as opposed to the higher ledge above the 3-4th class blocks... more rope out and less force on your crappy gear if you fall off.

The 10b direct arete start requires a #00 and #0 TCU, or similar size.