Standard Route

The route starts in a corner system near a small pine atop slabs. We followed "Rock Climbing Montana" and did it in 5 pitches.

Pitch 1 (5.9+, 80'): Follow corner system through bulge with two fixed pieces, to small dead tree on comfortable belay ledge with equalized fixed pieces, slings and rap ring.

Pitch 2 (5.9, 100'): Continue up corner system, the first half is a little sketchy/delicate with marginal gear; pull fun moves above fixed piece (equalized pin and slung block) and continue climbing to small platform in an alcove with webbing and rap ring.

Pitch 3 (5.9, 100'): Move left over roof, climb in corner system moving to the south face of the pillar to a comfortable belay ledge to the left of white roof; there's webbing slung around a rock.

Pitch 4 (5.8, 120'): Climb left and into chimney, to corner and back into chimney; build anchor before final corner crack. Watch for lose rock on this last part.

Pitch 5 (5.8, 50'): A few moves with good hand jams into a corner crack will bring you to the top; belay from tree or slung rock.

The route can be done in 4, or even 3 pitches. I would suggest:

P1 (5.9+, about 120') Go past first nest of belay slings, continue up slabby ramp and belay at fixed piece (pin and slung rock);

P2 (5.9, about 120') Go to top of original P3

P3 to the top, save a #1-#2 Camalot for last 30' of crack. Rope drag may be an issue so make sure to properly extend your draws.

To come down, walk across boulder field towards gully between Drip and Prow; reaching the gully requires crossing some class 3/4 slabs so be careful if wet/icy. It took us one hour to reach the bottom of the gully, then one additional hour to get back to the car.

Standard rack with small gear and double #3 cams, possibly a #4 (we did without), small nuts useful; maybe a few more doubles if planning to do it in 3 pitches. If doing it in 5 pitches, the first 3 belay stations have webbing and rap rings.