Dough Boy

This is the hardest completed route at Gillman. Its shorter than most gym routes, and the upper half is mid-5.11, so basically you're lookin' at a 15 foot boulder problem, which explains this route's absurd popularity. The route is hard right off the ground with a tricky move to get established. The crux comes about 6 feet off the deck with dynamic moves to small, slopey crimps. Stick clip highly recommended.

The route is listed as 13c in the guide book (Jemez Rock, by J. Marc Beverly, Sharp End Publishing), but its more like light duty 13b. I doubt very much this route would be given a grade any harder than 13a at Rifle, but hey, this is NM.

The route faces west, and so is probably climbable year round (I did it in July). Given the narrow-ness of the canyon, in winter it probably only sees brief sun.

This route is about 50 feet downstream from Puddy Girl, on the East side of the river. The trail from the Broken Arrow and Perp areas does not continue to Dough Boy, so to approach, begin from the road, locate the route, and cross the river about 10 feet downstream from the route.

4 QDs