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Peak Mountain 3

Organ Pipe Spire - Ender's Game

FA James Stover, Mickey Guziak, Tyson Younger
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ender's Game is on the Northwest face of the Organ Pipe. While not on par with

Medicine Man

or

Tom Stubbs Memorial Route - Terra Tower

, I wouldn't hesitate to put it up there with

Fast Draw

,

The Kor Route...

on the Kissing Couple, or

The Revolution...

on Egypt Rock. It also has the added benefit of adding another tower available to the mere mortals and those who appetite for obscure desert offerings is limited. It is pretty clean for getting off the beaten track, has some really fun climbing, and will only get better with traffic.  This is an excellent summertime route and is in the shade till mid afternoon at soltice.

P1. Ascend the steep corner via thin hands, passing a wide slot (crux) and karate chop to the top of the pillar where an intermediate belay can be made at a good ledge. Or, continue up left for another 50' through an easier but less stellar chimney to a solid anchor on a great ledge, 5.10, 130'+/-.

P2. Climb down and over to the crack system plug a bunch of solid cams under the roof, and bust hard moves over this difficult feature. Continue up the finger and thin hand crack as it gradually eases angle and tops out on a great ledge just below the summit, 5.10, 70+/-.

P3. Climb up and over, tagging the top and belaying in small alcove on the other side of the tower, 5.5, 30'.

Location

This route is on the Northwest face of the Organ Pipe. It ascends the center crack in between "the Weird Fun" and The original "Carter Route'. To access it, drop in from the Organ Pipes overlook (quickest) via a log rappel (70 meters full length) and subsequent jug, and follow the trail through the cliff band and over to the base of the tower. Drop in from the dead tree at the Sentinel Spire overlook, and walk across the valley floor. Or hump your ass off from the Lower Monument trailhead.

Down climb the summit, and rap to the top of 1 with one rope then to the ground with two.  This decent should Definitely be the preferred way down off this side.  If you have all your stuff you can rap the other side

Organ Pipe Spire - Aces & Eights

with a single seventy.

Protection

Double ropes, alpine runners, nuts, singles from a 0.3-#6 (C4), doubles from a 0.3-#3 (C4), a few extra 0.3-#1s and at least 5-6 #2-#3s for the first pitch.