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Peak Mountain 3

Mavericks

FA equipped by Zach Oranzak (5.10, A2), FFA: Brownpoint King (John Hennings? Summer 2007?)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Body Karate Roof was the formerly open roof project at Beehive Buttress. It is the only line of bolts that go directly out the only prominent roof at Beehive Buttress. Access this roof problem by climbing one of the 5.7 sport routes below it.

Eds. Per

Ken Duncan

, this route may be the same as ??; however, the rating differences submitted make this not entirely obvious. The submissions are combined here onto the 1st submission's page, as is our normal routine.

Per

bart cubrich 1

: start on

Gypsy Fire

, then head straight up the roof (crux), and finish up the techy slab climbing. Don't be fooled by the bolts to the right after the roof moves, the route goes straight up. This route is actually pretty sweet for The Beehive, even though it is basically one move of 5.12.

Location

This line goes out the center of the prominent roof system on the right side of Beehive Buttress.

Per

start on

Gypsy Fire

, and go through the roof.

Protection

Bolts to a bolted anchor.

Per

bart cubrich 1

: bring couple long slings for the 5.6 portion (I use 3), 3 quickdraws, and anchor gear. The anchor is a little sketchy looking, so if you like the person who is cleaning the route, I usually back up the anchor with a 0.3 BD X4. Bring a double length runner for the anchor of

Gypsy Fire

if you want the rope out of your way. It is safe to clip the crux bolt without doing so, but you will get massive rope burn when you fall in the crux.