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MapDescription
Climb the slightly overhanging double cracks via liebacks, finger jams, deadpoints, and long pulls past five bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The route is technical and sustained up to the fourth bolt and has a hard third clip.
Location
This route is on the upper tier of Midnight Rock. It is about twenty-five feet up and right from the top of Viola, and it is the next route down and to the left of Deus Ex Machina. It is Route 19 in Rolofson's guide. The easiest approach is from the top of the rock as described in Rolofson for
Dyno Mart
and
Deus Ex Machina
. You can also go up
Weather Report
, and then climb up to the large ledge and traverse to the right.
Protection
Bring #2 and #2.5 Friends and a large stopper to anchor the belayer.
Routes in Midnight Rock
- 25Geminae Cracks5.13aSport