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Peak Mountain 3

The Metamorphosis

FA Pat Ament, Gordy Ryan, 1967. FFA: Jim Erickson, Art Higbee, 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a total classic. Do either

The Yellow Traverse

or Diffraction to lead into this climb.

The climb begins in a right-facing dihedral halfway up the south face of the Wind Tower. Place pro, then pull left out of this dihedral onto a face with some left-trending jugs, crank onto these jugs (poorly protected .8) and up to two bolts. From the bolts, begin a rightward, rising traverse on flakes and jugs. The crux comes at a pull past a small, A-shaped flake with little in the way of feet. This move is well-protected with a good stopper. Here's the scary part. After pulling the crux, move up and thirty feet right on good holds to one last move onto a left-trending ramp. This move is solid and insecure 5.9 with your last piece thirty feet below you. You can get a small stopper in at this move, yet it would barely hold your body weight. This route is steep, exposed, spicy, and a hell of a lot of fun.

Protection

This route is pretty spicy; bring a selection of small cams and stoppers.