- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route starts at same alcove-ledge spot as "Friend of the Devil". A steep line of bolts heads up and right through fun and rewarding terrain that eventually gains the arete and shares an anchor with FOTD.
For now, this route shares two bolts with "Prescribed Burn", but I plan to install two more bolts to keep them separate. They do sort-of share a very short section of terrain, so I didn't want to over-bolt and change the aesthetics for PB, but after climbing this a few times I think it would be fine to add the bolts and keep them completely separate. Until I add the bolts, bring at least one long draw to reduce drag for the first of 2 PB bolts encountered around the arete (doubled-up quickdraw works fine).
Also, I plan to upgrade this route to 3-stars when retro-ed!!! Its pretty darn good.
Location
Furthest-right route on the grey basalt section. Start from the alcove-ledge above "Sympathy for the Devil".
Protection
10 bolts. anchor
Routes in Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )
- 18Sweet Anne Marie5.11-Sport