Dead Boy Direct

This route lies in the gully left of

Osiris

, the first large gully on the left side of the book. The route is the next one left of

Living Dead

. The route is a long, finger crack that starts in a left facing dihedral and goes for a full 150 feet up to some rap anchors on top of the second pitch of Living Dead. A variation called

Dead Boy

(.10b) takes a thin dicey RP protected traverse right directly to the anchors on

Living Dead

. This is a beautiful sustained finger crack in good rock. The first 100 feet are about 5.9 and lead up to a difficult 5.11 move in a bulge. After this move 30 feet of solid 5.11 finger jamming make for a pumpy lead up and right to join up with

Living Dead's

second pitch crux (.10a). A beautiful and worthwhile pitch that eats pro and stays in the shade for most of the day.

Many small to medium sized stoppers and TCUs the crux is thirty feet long and requires a substantial amount of gear in this range.