We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Bihedral

FA L. Dalke, C. Jennings, 1967
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb ascends the obvious, and namesake, left-facing dihedral on the Bihedral Wall. The first pitch is supposed to go at 7, while the second pitch is 8. I thought both pitches were a bit on the sandbag side. Little wonder that Rossiter describes this route as "somewhat of a classic".

P1. Ascend the dihedral with good pro all the way up, using face holds on the left where necessary. Traverse left past the bolts on top of

Rhodian Shores

(slab climb described elsewhere), and continue left and up on nebulous terrain until you reach a spacious ledge. Belay here with less-than-comforting gear (small).

P2. Continue up the obvious, but smaller, left-facing dihedral directly above to the top (8+/9-). While I am hesitant to add an s, good gear is not really available on the second pitch until after the first crux, and the chances of a painful fall at that point are about 100%. Best to be solid at the grade.

Descent: there are now numerous rap points. Two single raps on a 60m or a 50m rope will work if you go to the lowest intermediate chains and then scramble down the final bit to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot sized.