Double Sidewinder Splitter

Pitch 1: Head up the left side of the Sierra Corazon slab. Most of this is really easy but a lieback section near the top of this requires committing 5.7 moves, protectable with large cams. Straight up after this move, and you'll reach a 3-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Move left and go straight up past 4 bolts to the steep headwall with the double finger cracks. These take small cams and painful finger jams. It's fun stemming between the cracks to a 2-bolt anchor. You can plug in as much gear as you need in this crux section, especially finger size cams, but if you place gear in both cracks, use long runners to alleviate rope drag. This felt like hard 5.10 to me, but the gear is excellent. If you don't like pain or don't have good technique, the left-facing dihedral right of the 2 splitter cracks is easier (5.8 or 5.9), and will also reach the chains. (This right variation ("Bull Snake") was climbed by Mark Mathis on TR in 7/07, led by Matt Price subsequently, but certainly someone could've climbed it earlier.) Both choices are still a little loose in the headwall section, but it'll clean up with traffic.

The climb ascends the left edge of the Sierra Corazon slab in the 2nd Tunnel area, then goes straight up on Pitch 2. Rap the route by 2 rappels w/ a single 60m rope (or one rappel with 2 ropes).

Standard rack from 0.5" to 3". 4 bolts.

2-bolt anchors at the first belay and at the top are equipped with chains for rappelling.