We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Soothsayer

FA Adams/Osugi July, 21
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is listed in Squeezing the Lemmon 3 as "roman opposition". It was toproped by Eric Rhicard in the late 80's. When he went back to send it, a hold broke and he ended up abandoning it. The route sat for about 30 years until Jonathan and I went out there to try it on a whim. We were surprised to find that the climbing was not only fun but also very reasonable in difficulty. Start up the harder than it looks slab and make your way to a large ledge. Clip a bolt and find your way onto the crimpy delicate face as the angle kicks back. Long moves on good rails lead to a decent shake before things get difficult. A powerful sequence involving big moves on small holds deposits you at a decent jug. Rest here and punch through classic Mt. Lemmon face crimping until you find yourself at a large ledge. From here you are rewarded with a 5.8 hero romp to the chains on beautiful mail slot jugs. This climb is super fun.This one's hard to grade. Feels harder than monster buck. So like 12b?Big thanks to Jonathan, Dom, Matt, Alex and Jbak for going out there and helping me with this. You guys are the best.

Location

Currently the left most bolted route on the big green overhanging face  on the east side of the Druid.

Protection

8 bolts to mussys. 4th bolt has a cable so those under 6' can clip comfortably.