- Edit (TBD)
Description
The crux is likely figuring out what holds to trust navigating the roof of this climb. There is a big block on the ledge towards the left side before pulling onto the face that is quite the rocker. Large and may come off, tread with caution. The upper crack on the headwall is the hardest part, save some small gear and sew it up. Make sure to extend the pieces in the roof traverse to manage rope drag.
Location
This is the route directly right of "The Good Old Days" find the hand crack about 15' right, begin up it when it tapers off follow small broken crack systems to the roof, then continue up trending left towards the corner pull onto the black face and fire it. If you plan on doing this route it may be wise to bring a sling to replace the current anchor.
Protection
Standard rack. 2 pin/1 nut anchor. Sling was in rough shape.
Routes in 3. Rico Suave Buttress
- 17Mississippi Mike5.11bTrad