Nightcrawlers

Nightcrawlers provides an adventurous outing in an awesome venue. The combination of quality movement and position are what make this route memorable. Abundant techy crack climbing keeps it interesting while multiple steep sections build the exposure. An overhanging boulder crux guards a spectacular stretch of airy arete climbing high on the mountain. There are a few heads-up sections on this route, but the hardest moves on the climb can be aided.

P1) 5.10, 65m

Start up the clean seam, climbing technical thinness protected by thin gear. Follow the crack until seeing a rightward traverse to a twin crack system (optional belay). Continue up the cracks to a steep bulge on the right side of a small golden shield. A few more crack moves lead to a stance below a large right-facing corner.

P2) 5.11(spooky), 55m?

Climb up the steepening corner with jams and holds. Steep moves lead up and left out of the corner followed by more interesting finger crack and face to a stance below twin cracks. This section is the crux of the pitch, and although the movement is excellent, the pillar between the two thin cracks has a hollow sound when thumped. Use your best judgement. This 15 foot section is easy enough to aid if you get spooked. The cracks converge and bomber rock and locks lead through a changing corners to a roof pull. There are a few options for a belay here, the most comfortable likely being where your feet are on a golden undercling, after the changing corners but before the roof. Belaying higher on the slab is less comfortable, but will allow you to watch your leader on the crux of the next pitch.

P3) 5.11+ (5.9 R/X?), 60m

Pull onto the slab and climb the finger crack until it peters out. After arranging some tiny pro, climb face holds up to the anomalous golden juggy plates on the face. Standing on the plates you can place gear under the roof. Look up. The improbable boulder problem above you is likely the most difficult sequence on the route. After bouldering to the large flake above (or doing a reachy aid move), place gear but don’t climb up. Traverse right on patina to the arete. Take in the position and prepare yourself for a bit of a spacewalk. Layback the moderate yet runout arete for a good while (R/X?). A thin crack appears before things get too wild

. Stop at the second ledge and belay off a massive block.

P4) 5.10, 60m

Finish on the excellent last pitch of Hidden A

genda. Climb straight up blocky terrain to a wide slot and onto a ledge. Move left along the horizontal finger crack. When at the convergence of the X-Men cracks, you can cut back right for more 5.10 thinness (made it this far, might as well), or move up and left for the more moderate finish. Summit.

The route is located on the right side of the big main north face of the Juggernaut. Start in a thin seam in clean grey rock, just right of some large, parallel horizontal red streaks, and just left of a large right-facing corner.

The descent is a quick walk-off. Head straight back to the south, then traverse west towards the obvious sandy couloir, which will wrap you back around to the base.

Tiny to #3 Camalot

Doubles from blue alien to #2 Camalot

Triples of fingers

Nuts, including offsets and thin thin

There is no fixed protection on the route.