Austera Peak

Beautiful traverses of the Inspiration, McAllister, and Klawatti Glaciers. Breathtaking views of the North Cascades, including Baker, Shuksan, Forbidden, Eldorado, Dorados Needle, Tepeh Towers, plus many more. 4th and easy 5th class climbing for about 150' hundred feet to gain the sub-summit. One rappel (and mid 5th class climbing on the return) to get over the north ridge of Klawatti. Easy snow with a couple moderate snow traverses and bumps above and around crevasses. This route is all about the getting there--classic glacier mountaineering!

From the Eldorado camp at 7600' (the base of the east ridge) traverse the Inspiration Glacier at 7800' to Klawatti col. Pass Klawatti on the left (through the col) and follow the north ridge of Klawatti (along the upper reaches of the McAllister Glacier) to a break in the ridge at 7900'. Navigate the moat (not a problem in August) and rappel 75' to the Klawatti Glacier. (Re-gaining the ridge on the return trip required an easy moat then 75' of well-protected 5.5 climbing in August [stay left in the gully]) Traverse the Klawatti Glacier high and left to Austera Peak, which only appears when you get close to it). Drop the pack and crampons and scramble up a few hundred feet of 4th class--then trend and traverse left on a broken ridge. The final 30' is low fifth class climbing around to the right on the northeast face--this can either be solo'ed or simul-climbed with good gear. (Of note, one usually summits a sub-peak (by a few feet) of Austera. About 4hrs one-way (1280' ascent, 592' descent, 2.8 miles)

Glacier travel gear. 30-60M rope. Light rack and few long slings. (consider 0.3-2 cams, no nuts, retrievable cordalette for rappel)