- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route rides two incredible windy cracks from heaven for 200 feet up a massive detached block leaning along a wall on the west side of the river. The routes starts with a cool lift off the ground into some soft sandstone that only last the first 15 feet. (This is the + section and you should probably be comfortable leading 5.10 before trying this) Mantle on to a ledge and stick your hands into the crack and watch out for the scorpion who dived in there. The crack eventually splits into two and then they slowly move apart. The right crack is hands pretty much the whole way while the left widens into some fun off width and chimney moves. Choose your crack or shoot back and forth between them but eventually they spread apart and you have to pick one. There are infinite ways to climb her.
A 60m rope will take you to the anchors.
Location
Maybe a mile or two upriver of Moody Canyon spot the Manatee on the West side of the river. If you have crack on your mind, you can't miss it. To access the anchor without climbing it, one can take the long walk up and down the ramp that starts a little upriver. We originally accessed it this way to rap in and clean the route. On account of the location and low traffic, I'd also recommend brushing the route again before leading it. We rapped off the anchors with two 60s no problem.
Protection
Standard rack. Nothing smaller than .75, small gear could be placed near the bottom of the route but I can't say I'd trust that layer.
Sling anchor at top.
Routes in The Upper Arm
- 1The Manatee5.8+Trad