Dairygold

Dairygold is excellent in general with a fantastic 3rd pitch. It is mostly hand-size crack climbing with a little groveling here and there.

P1. Begin on a shelf at the base of the obvious dihedral. Climb fingers/hands/fist/OW through mediocre rock to a 2 bolt anchor on the left. When we first climbed this, we found a large hex fixed about 2/3 of the way up the pitch; however, there were no anchors at the obvious finish. I'd love to credit whoever first climbed the initial 50 feet of the route - if anyone has info, please let me know. The first pitch is worthwhile if just cragging, 75 feet, 5.10.

P2. Traverse left and up across the slab to a sloping ledge. This requires about 35 feet of easy but unprotected climbing. From the sloping ledge, climb a loose offwidth/chimney 20 feet to a 2 bolt anchor on a nice pedestal, 60 feet, 5.8.

P3. Climb 10 feet up the finger crack in the dihedral, then work left into the splitter hand crack on the face. Continue up 80 feet of heavenly crack climbing. At the top of the pitch, work right to find 3 bolts in good rock at a large ledge, 90 feet, 5.10.

P4 (optional). Climb 5.5 to the next ledge, then scramble to a massive block on the rim - there are amazing views from the top. There's a sling on a tree to help with the descent.

The best way to descend is to make a single rope rappel from the top of P3 to the top of P2, then do a double rope rappel to the ground.

The route is located around the prow to the left (South) of the main cragging area. From the obvious roof crack that splits the prow, scramble left and up about 100 feet. One can easily traverse a ledge to the proper base of the P1 dihedral. The splitter that makes the 3rd pitch can be seen from the road.

All the anchors are bolted. Bring a standard rack with several extra BD #2 sizes and perhaps an extra #1 and #3. A #4 for P1 is nice.