- Edit (TBD)
Description
As the name indicates, a good rest day diversion or maybe something to climb if you've got extra energy on the day you planned to hike out. The first pitch has high-quality rock and the rest are standard alpine fare.
Scramble up to the obvious right facing flake crack and climb it. From its top trend left and pass the roof on the left following cracks and shallow corners to a ledge. This 40m pitch checks in at about 5.9.
From here gain the crest of the ridge and follow it, choose-your-own-adventure style, for 4 pitches of climbing up to 5.7, around 30m each. Longer pitches could result in increased rope drag and poor communication. This section is reminiscent of Venusian Blind Arete.
From the summit, scrambling and a short section of technical downclimbing (or a rappel) to the west get you to the talus.
Location
The route starts on the left side of the north end of the peak. A prominent pointy roof partway up the first pitch is a good landmark.
Protection
We used a single rack to #3 C4 with a few tricams. A #4 could be useful if you've got it, and climbers who aren't solid at the grade might like some extra fingers to tight hands pieces.
Routes in Peak 11,880
- 1Rest Day Ridge5.9Alpine · Trad