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Description
This is a fabulous route. I can't say enough good about it. After you have crossed the creek and struggled up through the woods and a talus slope, find the lowest point on the crag. It should be pretty obvious. At the top left corner of the talus slope is where you find it.
Pitch 1 - 5.6. Scramble up over broken terrain, aiming for a left facing dihedral and climb it to a small ledge at the base of a roof.
Pitch 2 - 5.7. Pull around the roof to the left and continue up a left facing dihedral. Belay at another ledge and roof in the dihedral system.
Pitch 3 - 5.6. Scramble to the left over easier terrain to reach the base of the final headwall.
Pitch 4 - 5.7. This is the icing on the cake! See the nice pretty crack going up the steep headwall? Well, get on it. A couple of stretched-out stemming and jamming moves lead to bomber jugs and the top.
Scramble west or climber's right working laterally and down, but not too soon. You can descend to either side of the rock buttress in front of you. To the right involves some down climbing, but is shorter. You should locate a fairly obvious path once you scramble down to the trees. It hugs fairly tight to the cliff as it winds its way back to the base of the cliff.
See "
Colorado Front Range Crags
" by Peter Hubbel as a reference. It is out of print.
Protection
A standard rack is used for this route. Nothing special is needed.
Routes in Lover's Leap
- 10Lover's Leap5.7Trad