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Peak Mountain 3

The Slanting Crack

FA Bob Archbold
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the left to right rising crack to the left of Dirty Earnie. It's a little dirty itself and doesn't seem to get much traffic, but it's a fun climb regardless. After clipping the bolt (optional) you'll encounter the sequence of 5.8 moves. After gaining the upper portion of the climb it's a easy jog to the top.

Location

Left to Right rising crack just right of Dirty Earnie. You'll see the one bolt about 12 ft up.

Protection

There is one bolt on this route but it really isn't needed. There is a good pocket maybe a foot to the left that takes a decent cam placement and another good pocket after the bolt to the right that takes another. Good gear throughout. Currently has no anchors, either set up a trad belay or finish the easy 5th class arete to the top of dirty earnie and use these anchors to belay from the top. Must be followed due to the nature of the L-R crack.

Cams - 0.3-#2 Nuts 1-Bolt 2-Bolt Anchor on Top